My Sardinia Travel Guide - Olbia
After a month of prep and another month touring Sardinia, here's the first of several dedicated guides: what to see, but more importantly, where to drink and eat, where to work if you're online, and where to live life slowly and savor the time.
Getting to Sardinia
I chose to take the ferry over because I love to savor every moment of the journey and take it slow. The crossing allowed me to stop in Livorno, snack on some cacciucco, and once on board, enjoy a beer on the top deck under the stars (which you can hardly see because of the ship's bright lights!) And can we talk about the sunrise at sea with Sardinia's coast welcoming you?
I traveled with Corsica Ferries because they allow dogs to move around all areas of the ship (on a leash, of course)
Before Sardinia, some cacciucco advice directly from friends who've lived in Livorno:
Il Porto
It's open continuously, so no matter when you arrive, you can enjoy great cacciucco.
Here's the number to book: 0586 895424
Other recommended cacciucco spots by locals in Livorno near the port:
Trattoria Il Sottomarino, a historic restaurant - Via Terrazzini, 50, 57122 Livorno LI
Ristorante Andana - Via del Molo Mediceo, 22, 57123 Livorno LI
Ristorante Le volte - Via Calafati, 4, 57123 Livorno LI
Ristorante Aragosta - Piazza dell'Arsenale, 6, 57123 Livorno LI
Olbia
If you decide to reach your hotel/B&B/Airbnb by taxi, I recommend Anna Maria Deiana. She's the only one who didn't fuss about the dog and was super helpful with tips on what to do in the area.
Tel: +39.333.765.4216 g.arancideiana@gmail.com
Lose yourself in the city streets until you find Ammentos Patisserie, The Sweets of Lauretta, to try the first of many Sardinian Seadas.
Olbia also offers:
CULTURAL TIP: The Archaeological Museum of Olbia
GUILTY PLEASURE TIP: Garra Rufa Beach Beauty Center at Corso Umberto 134 A. I found this little spot downtown where you can spend an hour pampering yourself with nail care, Fish Therapy - which seems weird at first, but becomes... weird in a nice way - and facial treatments.
DIGITAL NOMAD TIP: I stayed at B&B 26 Olbia It's not super close to the center, but the location is perfect if you need a workspace, to meet fellow travelers, and a communal kitchen with plenty of coffee!
If you prefer to work by the sea and stick around for aperitif or dinner, a short drive will take you to Mama Beach. Here's a sneak peek of what awaits you, check out their webcam.
In Olbia in October, there are many events related to Vermentino, so if you love wine, get ready for tastings around town, winery tours, and events (below is a list of Sardinian wineries offering food and wine tours).
THE NURAGIC RIVIERA
Close to Olbia, you can dive into the archaeological sites of Arzachena. They're all close to each other, and you can buy a ticket for one or multiple sites.
Nuragic Complex La Prisgiona
Giants' Grave Coddu 'Ecchju
Giants' Grave Li Lolghi
Necropolis Of Li Muri
Nuraghe Albucciu
Giants' Grave Moru
Malchittu Temple
Roccia Il Fungo (The Mushroom Rock)
La Maddalena
You can reach La Maddalena from Palau. I recommend Maddalena Lines ferries, which are the cheapest. From La Maddalena, you can drive to Caprera and visit Garibaldi's places. The whole area, actually all of Sardinia, is full of feline colonies, so if you have a dog that isn't particularly fond of them, you must always be vigilant, because “Aliens They're coming outta the goddamn walls!”
Chit-Chat is free for everyone, but if you like what you read and want to support my work, paid subscriptions are very much appreciated!
Winery Experiences
CANTINA MESA
Sant'Anna Arresi, Loc. Su Baroni Referente: Maria Postovan
Tel. 3499362020 | visit@cantinamesa.com / www.cantinamesa.com
VINI MURA
Loiri, Loc. Azzanidò Referente: Mura Salvatore
Tel. 3474527979 | info@vinimura.it / www.vinimura.it
TENUTE SELLA & MOSCA
Alghero, Loc. I Piani Referente: Pinna Giovanni
Tel. 079997700 | giovanni.pinna@sellaemosca.com
www.sellaemosca.com
CANTINE GABRIELE PALMAS
Alghero, S.S. 291 km 12,400 Referente: Palmas Gabriele
Tel. 3356183448 info@gabrielepalmas.com
www.gabrielepalmas.it
CANTINA SOCIALE DEL VERMENTINO
Monti, Via San Paolo 2 Referente: Pirastru Franco
Tel. 079704163 | paolo@vermentinomonti.it
www.vermentinomonti.it
CANTINA TENUTA ASINARA
Sorso, Loc. Marritza Referente: Sassu Roberto
Tel. 3296691254| info@tenutaasinara.it
www.tenutaasinara.com
TENUTE SOLETTA
Codrongianos, Reg. Signor Anna
Referente: Soletta Umberto
Tel. 3483813739 | info@tenutesoletta.it
www.tenutesoletta.com
TENUTA MASONE MANNU
Monti, Loc. su Canale Referente: Emendatori Giordano
Tel. 3687562463 | s.biscaro@masonemannu.it
www.tenutamasonemannu.it
TENUTE OLBIOS
Olbia, Via Loiri 83 Referente: Meloni Chiara
Tel. 3483342042 linfo@tenuteolbios.com
www.tenuteolbios.com
CANTINA ZANATTA
Olbia, Loc. Murta Maria Referente: Zanatta Bruno
Tel. 3441910714 | mail bruno@vignetizanatta.it
www.vignetizanatta.it
LOCANDA MURALES
Olbia, Località Piliezzu 1
Tel. 3939231011 | mail amarty191088@gmail.com
LA CONTRALTA
Olbia, Via Vignola 18 Referente: Fara Anna Maria
Tel. 3497804013 linfo@lacontralta.it/ www.lacontralta.it
TENUTE COSTA DORIA
Valledoria, via Giuseppe Mazzini
Tel. 079/584241| mail info@costadoria.com
CALIBRI DI PIETRO CALVIA E STEFANIA BRIANDA
Berchidda, Via Gabriel 6 Referente: Calvia Pietro
Tel. 3401773833 | mail info@calibrivini.it
CAPPATO GIOVANNI
Berchidda, loc.Gettene I Tel. 333768310
CANTINA ATLANTIS
Berchidda, Referente: Sannitu Francesco
Tel. 3398952020 | info@atlantiswine.it
www.atlantiswine.it
CANTINA SOCIALE DEL GIOGANTINU
Berchidda, Via Milano 30 Referente: Zanzu Nicola
Tel. 079704163 | info@giogantinu.it | www.giogantinu.it
CONSORZIO SAN MICHELE
Berchidda, Loc. San Michele Referente: Gaias Gianni
Tel. 335/7683310 | info@consorziosanmichele.com/
wwww.consorziosanmichele.com
MUZZU EMANUELE
Arzachena, Viale Costa Smeralda 196
Tel. 3479872681